Mt.Kanchanjunga; Standing at 8586m Kanchanjunga is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal. It was first climbed by a British team in 1956. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, 8420m high, and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak.
The first westerner to explore Kanchanjunga was a British botanist J.D. Hooker, who visited the area twice in 1848 and 1849. Exploration from the Sikkim side of the peak was continued by the British explorers mapping and photographing until 1899. In that year a party led by Douglas Fresh Field made a circuit of Kanchanjunga and produced what is still one of the most authentic maps of the region.
Exploration continued, mostly from the Sikkim side, starting from Darjeeling in British India. One of the major contributors to Western knowledge about the region was Dr. A.M Kellas, who later died in Tibet during the approach of the 1921 Everest expedition. German expeditions attempted on several occasion to the peak like 1929, 1930 and again in 1931, but all failed .When the Sikkim entrance was closed, Nepal entrance was still open, a team in 1955 led by Dr. Charl as Evans approached the peak via the Yalung Glacier.
The Japanese then took up the challenge and mounted expeditions in 1967, 1973 and 1974. When they had climbed Yalung Kang, a German Expedition climbed Yalung Kang in 1975, and an Indian army team also mounted the second successful expeditions to the main peak of mount Kanchanjunga.
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Option-I From South Face side
Day01:Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,350m)
Day02: Rest in Kathmandu: Expedition briefing and Preparation
Day 3 Fly from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur and Drive to Phidim
Day 4 Drive from Phidim to Khandenba by Jeep
Day 5 Trek from Khandenba to Khewang (1,740m) : Camping
Trek from Khandenba to Khewang (1,740m) : Camping
Day 6 Trek from Khewang to Yamphudin (2,080m) : Camping
Day 7 Acclimatization in Yamphudin (rest day) : Camping
Day 8 Trek from Yamphudin to Tortong (2,995m) : Camping
Day 9 Trek from Tortong to Tseram (3,870m) : Camping
Day 10 Trek from Tseram to Ramche (4,580m) : 3 more nights : Camping
Day11 Acclimatization in Ramche (rest day) : Camping
Day 12 Acclimatization in Ramche (rest day) : Camping
Day 13 Trek from Ramche to Glacier Camp (4,890m) : Camping
Day 14 Trek from Glacier Camp to Pangpema (Kanchenjunga Basecamp – 5,143m) : Camping
Day 15 – 45 Day 15 – Day 45 : Climbing Period [Basecamp – Kanchenjung Summit (8,586m) – Basecamp]
Day 46 Trek from Basecamp to Ramche : Camping
Day 47 Trek from Ramche to Tortong : Camping
Day 48 Trek from Tortong to Yamphudin : Camping
Day 49 Trek from Yamphudin to Khewang : Camping
Day 50 Trek from Khewang to Khandenba
Day 51 Drive from Khandenba to Bhadrapur & Transfer to the Hotel: via Phidim
Day 52 Fly from Bhadrapur to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel
Day 53 Leisure day in Kathmandu City
Day 54 Transfer to the International Airport for final departure
The access trek from Suketar to the Base camp is also interesting due to its remoteness, the cultures inhibiting the area and a very rare endemic flora with 30 varieties of rhododendrons and 62 varieties of orchids. In Kanchenjunga Expedition the North Face route is definitely the safest, although not the easiest. Climb of Kanchenjunga begin from a charming base camp in the meadows of Panorama at 5,180 m. First challenge is to fix lines up 900 m of intricate mixed climbing to the North col. This provides the most challenging climbing of the expedition. Once creating a lifeline to and from the North Col you can begin the long process of establishing three camps up the long and complicated North ridge. Using Sherpa support and oxygen, you can move at a systematically slow velocity higher and higher up the mountain. This is a highly satisfying climb for the expert Climbers.
Kanchenjunga Expedition Base Camp Service:
Nepal View Trekking Pvt Ltd. provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for provision of all required accommodation and food.
In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day.
In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only.
In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff. We also have a comprehensive First Aid Kit available to our clients.
In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries
Kanchenjunga Expedition Full Board Service:
For full board clients we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared in high camps by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Full board with us means a provision of a personal climbing Sherpa to each individual climber, who will help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 and required bivvy including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. There are no commercial expeditions on Kanchenjunga so your climbing Sherpa with cooperation of other clients climbing Sherpas will set-up fixed ropes to North Col.
Approaches to ABC:
There are two Base Camps to climb Kanchenjunga, Kanchenjunga North Base Camp on Kanchenjunga Glacier and South Base Camp on Yalung Glacier. The access to both camps is from Suketar (2400m), the town with closest airport to the mountain with flights to Kathmandu. Suketar is also last town accessible from Kathmandu by the road. The route from North Base Camp via the North Col is the Normal route. It is not the easiest by it is the safest route with least objective danger.
Kanchenjunga is the most remote of all 8000m peaks in Nepal, and the trek to the North Base camp from Suketar takes about 11 days along Ghunsa Khola valley; it is 80km long gradual hike from 900m to 5100m, so it is a very nice way to relax and acclimatize to start the climb on the strong foot. Suketar is located at 2400m, so first day is a long downhill of 1500m, which has to be climbed on the return way.
The normal route via North Col and North face is definitely the safest but it is technical climbing. It will definitely not be suitable for an inexperienced climber but it is a delight for technical climber. The scenery is phenomenal all the way from the Base Camp overlooking the Kanchenjunga glacier, Kanchenjunga I and Kang Bachen.
The climb is challenging but very interesting. The most difficult section is to the North Col of about 500m of mixed ice and rock climb, where our climbing Sherpas will establish fixed rope route from just above 6500m to 7000m on the Col, a bee-line to take gear up safely. Once on the North Col the climb is along the ridge and the North face. The climb becomes less technical but very exposed to the weather.
From the Col the climb is typically done with 3 camps or bivvies moving up slowly to the summit.