Dhaulagiri Expedition

The name of this mountain is derived from Sanskrit word, “Dhavala” meaning white and “Giri” meaning mountain, which combines to become ‘White Mountain’. British surveyors sighted this mountain in India in early 1800s and one of the Indian surveyors, the pundits mapped it in 1873. However, the mountain became popular only after a Swiss aerial survey made in 1949.

When French got permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri, they choose Annapurna after making a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri in 1950. In 1953, a Swiss party failed then an Argentine group tried but failed one year later. And finally, Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960, following a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over the Dhampus pass.

French failed to climb the summit from the North-East Col so their expedition was supported by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the “Yeti” which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m.  But the plane crashed just before the end of the expedition near Dhampus pass. The pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.

In 1969 seven members of U.S expedition team were killed in an avalanche on the eastern Dhaulagiri Glacier. Later, Japanese climbed this mountain in 1970. The Americans and Italians climbed in 1973 and 1976 respectively. Captain Emil Wick airdropped two bottles of wine and a live chicken to the US expedition team from a Pilatus Porter aircrafts. That chicken became the expedition pet, were carried, snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten feet, to Marpha, where it was finally eaten up in the cooking pot  as Sherpa’s would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain.
Meaning of Dhaulagiri is white-mountain which is the seventh highest Mountain in the world. It is located at 28 41′ 46’N latitude and 83 29′ 43’E longitude and is measured at 8,167 meters above sea level. After its discovery in 1808, it replaced Ecuader’s Chimborazo as the postulated highest  mountain in the world. It Maintainet this standing for nearly 30 years, until the discovery  of Kanchenjunga, which was  then falsely believed  to be  the world’s highest mountain Dhaulagir’s crest stretches for  30 miles, lending structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twissting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls. In 1960. the  swiss/Austran expedition team first reached the  Summit, despite their aeroplane having crashed durung the approach and this was the first Himalayan climb supported by an aeroplane. The Climbing Months for  the  summit are April May, late September and  October. It can be reached from Pokhara

Itinerary

01: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.
02: Kathmandu leisure time.
03: Kathmandu-Official formalities and briefing for Expedition.
04: Kathmandu-Baglung by private coach.
05: Trek to Beni.
06: Trek to Babi Chor.
07: Trek to Dharapani.
08: Trek to Mudi.
09: Trek to Boghara.
10: Trek to Dabang.
11: Trek to Pine Forest.
12: Trek to Italian Base Camp.
13: Trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp.
14-33: Dhaulagiri Expedition-Climbing period.
34: Trek to Tukuche.
35: Trek to Yak Kharka.
36: Trek to Marpha.
37: Trek to Ghasa.
38: Trek to Tatopani.
39: Trek to Ghorepani.
40: Trek to Birethanti.
41: Transfer to Pokhara, stay in hotel.
42: Pokhara-Kathmandu by private transportation.
43: Kathmandu full city sightseeing tour.
44: Leisure day for self shopping and relaxation.
45: Final Departure.

 

Cho Oyu Expedition

Mount Cho Oyu in 1954 for the first time. The Indian and German teams also step on this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully conquered it. Easy route from the side of Tibet is preferred by most of the expedition to reach Mount Cho Oyu.  Monterosa Treks and Expedition is conducting the expedition from Tibet Side to Mount Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Lhakpari and others since 1998.

Meeting and climbing information:  Mount Cho Oyu Expedition begins after your arrival to Kathmandu and meets our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and they transfer you to hotel. Next day, we have orientation section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we arrange your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.

Three days after your arrival to Nepal, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Araniko Highway, where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation wait for us. The expedition equipments go by truck but the members there Travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. Spending one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nyalam (3750m) acclimatizing, next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights refreshing ourselves. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along bumpy way through grassy plain which leads up to the Everest base camp commonly known as Chinese base camp.

We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, depending upon our member’s desire. We also prepare schedules of the yaks by that time. Nepali cook serves us in a dining tent at Base camp. Now the two-day trek towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins. Surrounded by celestial peaks Mount Cho Oyu (5700m) Summit ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas. Ancient Yak trading route is still in use nearby the high pass Nangpa La. Superb scene of Mount Cho Oyu can be seen from ABC which is the main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to wait for the favorable situation for the expedition. Everyone is provided with individual tent. Our Service limits up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves. From ABC it is several hours difficult route with vague path over moraine-covered glacier to start mountaineering properly. The real mountaineering starts from Camp 1 at 6400m. The ridge is now quite easy climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require rope fixing above. New rope should be fixing in co-operation with other members. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Though crevassed the route normally does not create any problem.

The panorama of Mount Cho Oyu from Summit Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully assess to put the rope here. If you are fit enough you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. There are two rocky steps where you should fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent above camp 3. Finally, you begin early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. The slopes are still steep above the rock bands and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward along a long haul to the summit plateau.

The panorama of magnificent, mountains like, Mount Everest 8848m, Mount Lhotse 8501m, Mount Nuptse 7855m, Mount Chamlang 7319m, Mount Ama Dablam 6812m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south is breathtaking.  Mount Melungtse is to the west and mount Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north, there is all Tibet area. It is quite normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the ABC. The meaning of Chomo is goddess and Yu means Turquoise and the combination of these two makes Cho Oyu ultimately meaning turquoise goddess as per Tibetan dialect. Legend Regarding to the name of this mount Cho Oyu, the legend says, in Tibetan language, Chomo means the goddess and Yu means the turquoise. So adding these two words, it was called Cho Oyu. Also it is called the “Turquoise Goddess” as per the Tibetan dialect. Another derivation of the name to this is called it as the bald god as well.

01 Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
02 Kathmandu preparing for Chita visa permit
03 Kathmandu       ,,                ,,         ,,     ,,
04 Drive to Friendship Bridge, enter Tibet overnight in Zhangmu
05 Drive to Nyalam, acclimatisation walks
06 Drive to Tingri,
07 acclimatization day
08 Drive to Chinese Base Camp 4900m
09 Preparations day
10-12 Trek to Base Camp via intermediate camps
13-32 Ascent of Cho Oyu climbing period
33-38 Return to Kathmandu
39 Kathmandu
40 Final departure to home country.

 

Baruntse Expedition

Baruntse(7,129m) Expedition is the snow peak ,situated at the heart of the Everest region which is surrounded by the popular peaks of the World such as Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Chamlang, Amadablam and Mera peak etc of the Himalayas of Nepal. It is one of the few peaks that has high rate of success of ascent on usual route. . It approaches to the mountain follows the Mera Peak trek up to Mera La then to Baruntse base camp (5,250).

The approach to the mountain pursues the Mera Peak trek up to the Mera La and Baruntse Base Camp (5,250m). Its route is not technically demanding and basically an effortless climbing on snow and ice with some section of over hangings. Generally, there are two camps above the Base Camp of Baruntse climbing. These two camps such as camp I (5,700m) is set up just below East Col & camp II (6,420m) on the southeast ridge. Mainly three camps are set in the approach above the base camp for climbing. Our usual way is classic South-East ridge for climbing. The summit from Pumori offers superb panoramic views of snowy mountains which will be a great perception for mountaineers. It would become the most satisfying challenge in the Himalayan and provides other side of beautiful view of Lhotse, Nuptse and Everest.

Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow successfully climbed the Baruntse peak in 1954 May 30th. The South -East Ridge of Baruntse is little bit difficult because of having straightforward difficult ways to ascend. There are hard section of 50 Degree elevations with a prominent ice cliff to be ascended facing the risk of avalanche, so that climbers have succeeded the mountain only during the spring season. But even at autumn season climbers are able to reach on its top. Baruntse Expedition tailored itinerary has been carefully designed to allow for gradual ascends and proper acclimatization by our expert climbing guides Sherpa for Baruntse Expedition during spring and autumn.

Itinerary

01: Arrival in Airport and transfer to hotel.
02-04: Preparation day at Kathmandu.
05: Early morning fly to Lukla. Trek to Chuthenga.
06: Trek to Chatra La .
07: Trek to Thasing Dingma.
08: Trek to Thagnak.
09: Trek to Khare
10: Trek to Mera Base Camp.
11: Trek to Pokhari.
12: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp.
13-32:Climbing period.
33: Trek to Pokhari.
34: Trek to Mera Peak Base Camp.
35: Trek to Thasing Dingma.
36: Trek to Chatra
37: Trek to Lukla.
38: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu. Check into hotel.
39: Leisure day at Kathmandu.
40: Departure to Home country.

Amadablam Expedition

Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain, located almost due south of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse in the Khumbu region. It stands high among many 22,000 to 24,000 ft peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty. It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression, as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain, together with Pumori along the popular trekking route of Everest Base Camp. Normally, we require three camps to set up above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the night. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1 is considered one of the most difficult days of the expedition. We cross a rocky bowl and climb the ridge frequently alternating the sides along the fixed lines to the camp II. Climbing the ridge involves severe rock climbing which leads to the top of a yellow tower. The climbing route from camp II changes significantly with the steep climb mixed with gully’s rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the ramp and climbs to an amphitheatre and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnel and finally, along the snow ridge to reach camp III. The summit from camp III requires steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier.
Lated as’ Mountain of the Spirit.’ The Best Climbing months are April May late Septmber and October. It can be approach from Lukla.

Day to Day Itinerary

01 Arrival kathmandu & transfer to Hotel.
02 Kathmandu Expedition prepared
03 Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism.
04 Lukla & trek to Phakding – Lodge.
05 Namche Bazaar – Lodge.
06 Namche-Acclimatization- Lodge.
07 Namche-Thyanboche Monastery Lodge.
08 Thyanboche-Amadablam Base Camp, Camp.
09-26 Climbing period for Amadablam 6812m. (Route Map)
27 Base camp-Namche-Camp or Lodge.
28 Namche-Phakding-Camp or Lodge.
29 Phakding-lukla-Camp or Lodge
30 Fly Lukla-Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.
31 Kathmandu
32 Final Departure.

Mt. Everest Expedition

Mt Everest is lying in the Mahalangur range and known as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Chomolongma in Tibet is the highesh mountain Peak in the world. Mt. Everest is located in the Solukhumbu Diistrict of Sagarmatha Zone at 2759′ 17’N latitude and 8655’31’E longgitde. Sir Greoge Everest, the British, the Surveyorgeneral of India, discovered it in 1852. Everest was then referred to as peak XV. It was officially named Mt Everest in 1865 and a Nepali Name Sagarmatha was given in 1956. The Best Climbing Months are April and May and Most expeditions set out for the Summit from Namche Bazaar in Solukhumbu.
The role of Mountain tourism is considersd very significant in overall tourism development. Mountaineers turned towards Nepal ofter the successful scaling of Mt. Everest By Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa on 29 may. 1953. Every year over a hundred mountaineering teams attempted to scale different peaks of the country but some half of them were successful. Like other forms of tourism, the number of Expediton teams has deecreased in recent years.

Itinerary

01 The day is your Arrival in Kathmandu& Meet your agency at the Airport & transfer to hotel. O/N hotel.
02 Free day in Kathmandu with Trekking Crew hotel B/B.
03 In Kathmandu Official formalities & Preparation Trekking crew, hotel B/B.
04 Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, camp or Lodge.
05 Lukla to Phakding, camp.
06 Phakding to Namche, camp.
07 Acclimatize at Namche Bazaar camp.
08 Namche to Tyangboche, camp.
09 Tyangboche to Pheriche, camp.
10 Pheriche to Lobuche, Camp.
11 Lobuche to Everest base camp.
12-53 Climbing period of Everest.
54 Base camp to Lobuche, camp.
55 Lobuche to Tengboche, camp.
56 Tyangboche, to Namche, camp.
57 Namche to Phakding camp or Lodge.
58 Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu transfer at hotel B/B.
59-60 Fully shopping or sightseeing day in kathmandu, hotel B/B.
61 Final Departure to international Airport.